PLN
The question comes up in stables regularly: if leather likes fat and there's olive oil in the kitchen, why buy a separate product? Add to that yard stories about what tack used to be greased with, and the belief that if something is natural, it can't do any harm.
The answer is no: neither olive oil nor linseed oil is suitable for a saddle. Each for a different reason, and it's worth knowing both, because this isn't just a case of “because the manufacturer says so”.
Below: what happens to leather after olive oil, why linseed oil is a completely separate problem, what to use on a saddle instead and what to do if your saddle has already been treated with one of them. And if you're looking for products that are actually made for saddle leather, you'll find them in our tack care category.
Key points at a glance
- Olive oil and other cooking fats soak into the leather and go rancid there, just as they do in the kitchen. They leave behind a smell of stale fat that won't air out.
- Linseed oil is a drying oil. In contact with air it cures into a hard layer, which is why it's used to make boiled linseed varnish. A saddle needs the exact opposite.
- A rag soaked in linseed oil can catch fire on its own. In a stable that's a real risk, not a theory.
- Use only products made for leather, following the saddle manufacturer's instructions.
Contents
- Why not olive oil?
- Why not linseed oil?
- So what should you use on a saddle?
- What if the saddle has already been treated?
- Common mistakes
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
- Summary
Why not olive oil?
Olive oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, lard, cod liver oil: these are all edible fats, not made for conditioning leather. Cooking fat goes off after a while, and the fat that has soaked into the leather starts to smell bad. You can't wash it out, because the smell sits in the leather, not on its surface.
The second issue is quantity. Leather takes up as much fat as it can bind, and the rest stays on the surface and collects dust and sand. With a leather care product you apply a thin layer and stay in control. With olive oil from the bottle it usually ends with “just a bit more”.
It's also worth remembering that saddle manufacturers state in their instructions what to condition their leather with, and it's sensible to stick to that, especially with more expensive tack.
Why not linseed oil?
With linseed oil the problem is completely different from olive oil, and it isn't about smell. It's a drying oil: oxygen from the air makes its molecules bond together into a hard, compact film. That's exactly why it's used to make linseed varnish, oil paints and lacquers.
On a saddle that works against us. Saddle leather has to flex, bend under the rider and return to shape, not be sealed under a layer that has stiffened on contact with air.
There's also a safety issue few people know about: rags and sponges soaked in linseed oil can ignite on their own. As the oil cures it gives off heat, and a rag that's balled up or thrown on a pile has no way to release it. In a building full of hay and bedding, that's a risk not worth taking to save a few dozen zloty.
So what should you use on a saddle?
On saddle leather we use products made for it: a balm for regular care and an oil when the leather is clearly dry. For Prestige Italia saddles that means Prestige P14 balm or Prestige oil, and for Renaissance, Renaissance P15 oil.
How much to apply and how often is covered in our guide on how to care for a saddle part by part, and where to start with new tack in our piece on how to prepare a new saddle for use.
What if the saddle has already been treated?
Using olive oil once usually doesn't cause damage that can't be put right. What you do next matters more.
Don't add more layers, and don't try to “cover it up” with balm. Wipe the excess off the surface, then go back to products made for leather.
If the leather has become sticky, unnaturally soft or smells of stale fat, book our saddle leather cleaning and care. In our saddle service we reach places you can't clean properly at the yard, and we can see straight away whether the problem is only on the surface or goes deeper.
Common mistakes
- Olive oil “because it's natural”. Natural doesn't mean made for leather. Reach for a leather balm or oil instead.
- Linseed oil from the workshop. It's a drying oil for wood and paint. It isn't suitable for saddle leather.
- A balled-up linseed oil rag in the stable. If one is already lying around, spread it flat to dry on a non-flammable surface or put it in a metal container with water.
- Covering olive oil with balm. Wipe off the excess first, and only then go back to proper care.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Will one application of olive oil ruin a saddle?
Probably not, especially if it was a small amount a long time ago. The problem is repetition: cooking fat builds up in the leather, goes off over time and leaves a smell that normal cleaning can't remove.
So what should I condition a saddle with?
A product made for leather, following the saddle manufacturer's instructions. The brand and type depend on the model and the leather, so if in doubt it's better to ask than to grab the first substitute to hand.
Is linseed oil suitable for anything leather?
Not for equestrian tack. As a drying oil it forms a hard film, while saddle leather has to stay supple and flex under the rider.
What about cod liver oil or lard? You hear about them at the yard
They're in the same category as olive oil: fats not made for conditioning leather, which start to smell bad after a while. The fact that they've been used for generations doesn't make them a good choice for modern saddle leather.
Can the smell of stale fat be removed?
Partly, and not always. It depends on how deep the fat has soaked in and how long it has been in the leather. That's why it's easier to avoid than to fix.
Summary
Olive oil and linseed oil are two different problems with the same answer: no. Olive oil and other cooking fats soak into the leather, go off there and leave a smell behind. Linseed oil cures into a hard layer, because that's what it's made for, and on top of that it brings a fire risk nobody needs in a stable.
If you're not sure whether a product in your grooming box is right for your saddle, contact us via our contact page or bring your tack to the Equishop Service at ul. Oświęcimska 9 in Ruda Śląska.
